You’ve probably seen Vitamin C all over the shelves – serums, lotions, even masks – promising a brighter, more radiant complexion. But what exactly is vitamin C in skincare, and how does it work its magic?

Also known as ascorbic acid, vitamin C is a potent antioxidant widely used in skincare products. It plays a crucial role in maintaining healthy skin by protecting it from oxidative stress caused by free radicals, which are unstable molecules generated by environmental factors like UV radiation and pollution. 

Vitamin C is naturally found in many fruits and vegetables, but it can also be applied topically to deliver targeted benefits to the skin. In skincare products, Vitamin C is typically available in serums, creams, and lotions.

How Does Vitamin C Skincare Benefit the Skin?

Ascorbic acid provides numerous advantages for dermal health, making it as a favored component in various skincare regimens:

• Brightening: A popular study in 2017 showed that vitamin C can help fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production. (1) Melanin is the natural substance that determines your skin’s complexion, and excess production can result in patchy coloration and hyperpigmented areas.Vitamin C helps regulate melanin production, resulting in a brighter, more even-toned complexion.
• Anti-Aging: Collagen is the protein that provides your skin with structure and keeps it plump and youthful. As you age, your body’s natural collagen production slows down. Vitamin C acts as a stimulant, encouraging your skin to produce more collagen. This reduces fine lines, dark circles, and wrinkles, plumps up the skin, and giving you a firmer, more youthful appearance. (2) (3)
• Protection: Sun exposure is a major culprit behind wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and even skin cancer. While vitamin C isn’t a replacement for sunscreen, it can offer additional protection when used together. (1) Vitamin C neutralizes free radicals produced by UV rays, further minimizing sun damage to your skin.
• Reduce inflammation and boost healing: Vitamin C accelerates the skin’s natural healing process by reducing inflammation, which can be beneficial for acne scars, sunburns, and other skin injuries. It promotes faster cell turnover and regeneration. (4)
• Hydration: Some forms of Vitamin C, like Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, also provide hydrating benefits, helping to maintain the skin’s moisture balance. (5)

Potential Side Effects of Using Vitamin C Skincare

While this vitamin is generally safe for most skin types, it can sometimes cause side effects, especially for those with sensitive skin. Here are some potential issues and how to address them:

Irritation and Redness

High concentrations of Vitamin C can cause irritation, redness, or a stinging sensation. To minimize this, start with a 10% concentration or lower and gradually incorporate it in your skincare routine. You can also look for products formulated with gentler derivatives of Vitamin C, such as Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate.

Here’s how to navigate this:

• Start with a lower percentage (10% or less) of vitamin C.
• Look for formulas with soothing ingredients like hyaluronic acid or aloe vera.
• Apply vitamin C to damp skin, as it can be less irritating.
• Gradually increase the concentration if your skin tolerates it well.

Dryness

Some people may experience dryness when using Vitamin C. This can be mitigated by applying a moisturizer after your Vitamin C serum or cream. Using hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid in conjunction with Vitamin C can also help maintain skin hydration.

Here’s how to combat dryness:

• Combine your vitamin C serum with a quality hydrating cream to maintain skin moisture levels.
• Look for formulas with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin.
• Apply a hydrating face mask a couple of times a week for an extra boost of moisture.

Breakouts

Although rare, some individuals might experience breakouts when starting Vitamin C. This can be due to the skin adjusting to a new product. Introduce Vitamin C gradually, using it every other day initially, and monitor your skin’s response. 

Here’s how to prevent vitamin C-induced breakouts:

• Start with a lower percentage of vitamin C (10% or less) and see if irritation subsides.
•  Introduce vitamin C slowly into your routine, using it every other day initially.
• Pair vitamin C with a good moisturizer to combat dryness, a potential culprit for breakouts.
• Explore gentler vitamin C derivatives like Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate or Ascorbyl Glucoside if L-ascorbic acid is too irritating.

The Differences Between the Vitamin C Types in Skincare

Vitamin C in skincare comes in various forms, each with unique properties and benefits:

• Pure Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid): This is the most potent and well-researched form of Vitamin C. It is highly effective at brightening the skin and stimulating collagen production but can be irritating for sensitive skin. It is best used in stable, low pH formulations.
• Ascorbyl Palmitate: This fat-soluble form is more stable than L-Ascorbic Acid. It is less potent but gentler on the skin, making it a great match for those with sensitive skin.
• Ascorbyl Glucoside: This form gets activated upon contact with the skin. It is known for its brightening effects and is often used in products targeting hyperpigmentation.
• Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: This oil-soluble form penetrates deep into the skin. It is highly stable and non-irritating, making it ideal for dry and sensitive skin types. It also supports collagen production and offers antioxidant protection.
• Vitamin C with Bioflavonoids: Bioflavonoids enhance the stability and absorption of Vitamin C. This combination offers powerful antioxidant protection and improves the overall effectiveness of Vitamin C in skincare products.
• Natural-Based Vitamin C (Kakadu Plum): Kakadu plum is a natural source of Vitamin C, boasting one of the highest concentrations found in nature. It offers antioxidant benefits, helps brighten the skin, and is suitable for sensitive skin due to its natural origin.
• Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP): This water-soluble form is less irritating and suitable for all skin types, including acne-prone skin. SAP has potent antimicrobial properties, which makes it beneficial for reducing acne.
• Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP): Another stable and gentle form, which makies it ideal for sensitive skin. MAP is effective at brightening the skin and reducing signs of aging without causing irritation.
• Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate: A fat-soluble derivative that is highly stable and penetrates the skin deeply. It offers long-lasting benefits, including collagen production and antioxidant protection, and is suitable for sensitive skin.

How Often Can You Use Vitamin C Skincare?

Vitamin C can be used daily as part of your morning skincare routine. Starting with a lower concentration (around 10%) is advisable if you are new to Vitamin C. As your skin builds tolerance, you can increase the concentration to 15% or 20%. For best results, apply Vitamin C products in the morning to take advantage of their protective benefits against UV radiation and environmental pollutants.

How to Incorporate Vitamin C into Your Skincare Routine

Integrating Vitamin C into your skincare routine is straightforward. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

1. Cleanse: Use a gentle cleanser to prepare your skin and remove impurities.
2. Tone: Use of a gentle toner allows balancing of your skin’s pH, soothes irritation, and prepares it for better absorption of subsequent products.
3. Apply Vitamin C: Apply a Vitamin C serum or cream to your face and neck. Allow it to absorb for a few minutes.
4. Moisturize: A moisturizer is important at this stage to lock in hydration and enhance the effectiveness of Vitamin C.
5. Sunscreen: Conclude your AM regimen by applying a sun protectant (SPF 30 or higher) to shield your skin from harmful ultraviolet rays.

What You Should NOT Use Vitamin C Skincare Together With

Certain ingredients can reduce the effectiveness of Vitamin C or cause irritation when used together. Avoid combining Vitamin C with:

• Retinol (Vitamin A): Using Retinol and Vitamin C together can cause irritation and reduce the effectiveness of both ingredients.
• Benzoyl Peroxide: This can oxidize Vitamin C, rendering it less effective. Avoid using products containing Benzoyl Peroxide and Vitamin C simultaneously.
• Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids: AHAs/BHAs can alter the pH of Vitamin C, reducing its stability and effectiveness. It is best to use them on alternate days or at different times of the day.

What You Can Pair Vitamin C Skincare With

Pairing Vitamin C with certain ingredients can enhance its benefits:

• Ferulic Acid: This antioxidant boosts the stability and effectiveness of Vitamin C, providing enhanced protection against free radicals and UV damage. (6)
• Vitamin E: Vitamin E collaborates with Vitamin C, boosting its antioxidant properties while offering extra moisture and restorative advantages for the skin. (7)
• Hyaluronic Acid: This hydrating ingredient helps to keep your skin plump and moisturized, complementing the brightening and protective benefits of Vitamin C.

Why Packaging is Super Important for Vitamin C Skincare

Vitamin C is highly effective in skincare, but its potency can quickly diminish if not packaged or stored properly. This is why packaging plays a critical role in preserving the benefits of Vitamin C products. 

Exposure to light, air, and heat can cause Vitamin C to oxidize, leading to changes in color, texture, and smell. To prevent these changes and maintain the efficacy of Vitamin C, the packaging must protect the product from light, air, and heat. Here are some key packaging features to look for:

• Opaque or Dark Bottles: These prevent light from penetrating the container and degrading the Vitamin C. Dark glass or opaque plastic bottles are ideal.
• Air-Tight Seals: Packaging with air-tight pumps or droppers minimizes air exposure each time you use the product. Avoid products in jars or containers that require opening and closing frequently, as this can introduce air and accelerate oxidation.
• Temperature Control: While not directly related to packaging, storing Vitamin C products in a cool, dark place can further protect them from heat degradation.

Frequently Asked Questions About Vitamin C In Skincare

1. What is the purpose of vitamin C in skincare?

Vitamin C brightens skin, lessens fine lines and wrinkles, and shields against UV rays and pollution. As a potent antioxidant, it fights free radicals that age skin. This nutrient protects and rejuvenates, promoting a healthier, more youthful complexion.

2. Why is vitamin C so important for skin?

Vitamin C is crucial for skincare routine because of it’s potential to boost collagen production. This protein helps maintain skin firmness and elasticity. It also evens out skin tone and reduces hyperpigmentation, making the skin look more radiant and youthful.

3. What is the most effective form of vitamin C in skincare?

Vitamin C’s most potent skincare variant is L-Ascorbic Acid, offering superior efficacy. It is highly potent and has been extensively studied for its ability to penetrate the skin and deliver visible results.

4. Which vitamin C for skin whitening?

Ascorbyl Glucoside is particularly effective for skin whitening. It is a stable form of vitamin C that helps to reduce dark spots and hyperpigmentation, leading to a brighter and more even complexion.

5. Where does vitamin C fit in skincare routine?

Vitamin C should be applied after cleansing and toning but before moisturizing. This ensures that it can be fully absorbed by the skin and provide maximum benefits.

6. Vitamin C before or after moisturizer?

Vitamin C should be applied before moisturizer to allow the serum to penetrate deeply into the skin. Using it this way also ensures delivery of its antioxidant and brightening benefits.

7. How to introduce vitamin C in skincare?

Introduce vitamin C slowly by starting with a lower concentration (around 10%) and using it every other day. Gradually increase the frequency to daily use as your skin builds tolerance.

The Bottom Line

• Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that is scientifically proven to brighten, protect, and rejuvenate the skin.
• Due to its potential irritation, you should always start with a 10% or lower concentration.
• Use it daily for the best results, but always pair it with sunscreen.
• Avoid using it with Retinol, Benzoyl Peroxide, and AHAs/BHAs.
• Pair Vitamin C with Vitamin E, Ferulic Acid, and Hyaluronic Acid for enhanced benefits.
• Choose products with proper packaging to maintain Vitamin C’s effectiveness.

By incorporating Vitamin C into your skincare routine and following these tips, you can achieve brighter, healthier, and more youthful-looking skin.

REFERENCES

1. Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. 2017 Aug 12;9(8):866. doi: 10.3390/nu9080866. PMID: 28805671; PMCID: PMC5579659.
2. Ahmed NA, Mohammed SS, Fatani MI. Treatment of periorbital dark circles: Comparative study of carboxy therapy vs chemical peeling vs mesotherapy. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019 Feb;18(1):169-175. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12536. Epub 2018 May 16. PMID: 29767467.
3. Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017 Jul;10(7):14-17. Epub 2017 Jul 1. PMID: 29104718; PMCID: PMC5605218.
4. Ellulu MS, Rahmat A, Patimah I, Khaza’ai H, Abed Y. Effect of vitamin C on inflammation and metabolic markers in hypertensive and/or diabetic obese adults: a randomized controlled trial. Drug Des Devel Ther. 2015 Jul 1;9:3405-12. doi: 10.2147/DDDT.S83144. PMID: 26170625; PMCID: PMC4492638.
5. Kandil SM, Soliman II, Diab HM, Bedair NI, Mahrous MH, Abdou EM. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate vesicular carriers for topical delivery; preparation, in-vitro and ex-vivo evaluation, factorial optimization and clinical assessment in melasma patients. Drug Deliv. 2022 Dec;29(1):534-547. doi: 10.1080/10717544.2022.2036872. PMID: 35156490; PMCID: PMC9040897.
6. Lin FH, Lin JY, Gupta RD, Tournas JA, Burch JA, Selim MA, Monteiro-Riviere NA, Grichnik JM, Zielinski J, Pinnell SR. Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2005 Oct;125(4):826-32. doi: 10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23768.x. PMID: 16185284.
7. Chen L, Hu JY, Wang SQ. The role of antioxidants in photoprotection: a critical review. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2012 Nov;67(5):1013-24. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2012.02.009. Epub 2012 Mar 9. PMID: 22406231.